A simple yet beautiful way to customize the look of any kitchen, this simple but unique brick backsplash style is made with clay bricks. How to set up a brick backsplash in the kitchen.
This work will be complete in a few days. One-day working hours: 6 – 8 hours. time: 2 – 3 days. YIELD Eight linear feet of back-plash 24 inches in height. Level of Skill: Intermediate. The estimated cost ranges from $250-$350
The tile backsplash installed in your kitchen can be distinctive and captivating, and that’s the point. The backsplashes in kitchens tend to be towards tiles made of glass, o stone tiles, or countertop extensions.
However, Brick backsplashes attract attention and give off an impression of timeless permanence. It’s also much easier to complete than it appears due to the simple installation of small bricks.
What is a Brick Backsplash?
Brick backsplashes are a durable surface for the wall behind the kitchen counters. It can use for decorative as well as practical uses.
As a decor, a brick backsplash creates a solid, classic look. It also can be the wall with a solid, sturdy layer to shield the wall from being damaged.
A new backsplash made of brick typically is made of the mold-made brick-like veneer unit but not extruded brick. In older houses, the brick backsplash in the kitchen constructed of bricks could be an original feature of the house and not an extra characteristic.
What tools do you need?
- Tape Measure
- Circuit Tester/Voltage Detector
- Drill/Driver & Bits
- Tile Cutter/Tile Nippers
- Tile Saw
- Notched Flooring Trowel
- Rubber Grout Float
- Eye Protection
- Cleaning Gloves
- Tile Caulk
- Thinset Mortar
- Peel-&-Stick Tile Backsplash Mats (Optional)
- Wood Board (for Ledger Board)
- Wood Screws
- TSP (Trisodium Phosphate)
- Tile Spacers
- Painters Tape
- Grout Sealer
- Electrical Box Extenders
- It is fireproof (can be used in conjunction with stoves)
- Impact resistance
- It looks like genuine brick
- Solid and hard
- It must seal
- The area is difficult to wash.
- Highly susceptible to chipping
- It needs grout and mortar
The most suitable material to create an attractive brick backsplash is face brick or veneer, a form of manufactured stone.
Veneer brick is beautiful, cost-effective thin, fireproof, and thin. It’s intended to be used for decoration and not for construction.
This brick is available in many colors and styles: gray, red weathered, and smooth. Veneer brick looks similar to real brick, as it is a masonry product.
The majority of the veneer brick sold to DIYers isn’t genuine brick. It’s a kind of manufactured veneer stone made of molds and then cured as concrete but not fired as a brick.
Manufactured stone veneer comprises Portland cement, aggregates, and iron oxides. The color is based on the surfaces because it’s not a through body unit. The thin bricks extruded through-body aren’t easy for homeowners to locate.
What is Through-Body?
Through-body refers to the material and color extending to the entire building. Tiles or bricks through-body wear well, as chips reveal an additional layer of materials below.
Veneer brick is lightweight enough to stick with its back walls without needing support lower. It’s applied with the mortar that is thinset (the same mortar used to create tile) or glue.
Grout applied to joints between the bricks is solely for decorative reasons.
Faux Brick Veneer Panels
- Easy to fix using glue
- Easy to wash
- Waterproof. No requirement to seal
- More prone to being damaged than brick veneer
- It could not be authentic
- Not fireproof
- Only available in large panels
Veneer bricks could replace brick backsplashes, also known as a fake veneer or faux brick. It’s ideal for DIYers looking to put in this backsplash without dealing with grout or mortar.
Made from polystyrene, the large-format panels show the impressions of several bricks (around 45-55) in a single panel.
Since they are polymers, veneer brick panels benefit from being waterproof with no need for sealing. They’re so light that they can be attached to the wall using construction glue.
Veneer panels can easily be broken or chipped when struck. In addition, although many kinds of veneer panels are certified according to ASTM E84 Class-A fire standards, that doesn’t mean the panel is safe from fire. It is only a guarantee that the panel is equipped with certain features for surface-burning.
What about using real Bricks?
Full-size concrete brick or clay, which is the kind that is used to construct walls or for creating pathways, is typically not a good choice for kitchen backsplashes.
Although full-size bricks are cheap, it’s not ideal for backsplashes due to their weight and size.
A typical brick measures around 4 inches by 8 inches and 2-inches thick. A large brick could eat four inches of a 25-inch kitchen counter’s small depth. Additionally, since bricks have to be placed on the counter, their mass (about 5 pounds/square foot) is too heavy for the counter’s capacity.
As a hard surface that is a backsplash of brick, it lasts longer than the drywall that has been painted. Compared to other hard surfaces, the brick backsplash constructed from the molded veneer bricks may be less durable as scratches or chips remove the top color and expose the gray, cement-like body. The majority of manufacturers offer paints that can use to touch up the surface. Thin bricks extruded from the mold won’t have this issue.
Spacing and size
A brick backsplash may extend beyond the top of the countertop in the kitchen up to the ceiling. Or, depending on the location, it might end at the bottom of the wall cabinets.
Brick veneers have the same dimensions as bricks: about 2 inches high and 8 inches long. This kind of brick veneer is available in single units with dimensions of one brick.
As wall cabinets can range from 18 to 24 inches above the countertop, The fake bricks are designed to fill that gap, generally between 26 and 27 inches tall. Two bricks could cover a countertop with an 8-foot backsplash.
Brick veneers or panels add to the wall’s thickness by 1/4-to 3/4 inches, must extend So electrical boxes to the outside.
Brick Backsplash Cost
A brick backsplash is approximately $250-$350 to cover 16 sq. feet. The brick veneer is the largest part of the price: around $150-$200 per square foot for an area of 18-20 sq.
Another $100 to $150 could pay for the thin-set mortar grout and special tools that you might not have in your arsenal.
The faux brick veneer panels are around 25-30 percent more than traditional brick. But the additional cost may be recovered because there aren’t any other materials or tools that have to be bought.
Prepare the Walls for Tile
You can apply a tile backsplash to your kitchen over a clean, level drywall. Sinks are not considered wet areas like showers that require a backer board. What’s Inside My Wall Before You Start?
Remember to use the right trowel and mortar for a successful tile project. You can use the tile type and size indoors or outdoors and on the floor or walls.
DIY Tile Backsplash
Installing a DIY backsplash is much more than an opportunity to boost the look of your kitchen. If you’ve ever pulled your mixer from the bowl of batter an inch too ahead of time, you’ll realize that having an easily cleaned backsplash is sensible also. Plus, it’s a quick home improvement project. Can complete The benefits and beauty of a fresh backsplash tile in just a few days with our step-by-step guide. We’ll help you cut, place the tiles, and grout them for a modern kitchen.
1: Clean Walls
Begin by switching off the power for your kitchen and then removing the outlet covers or switch plates. Tiles can be affixed to drywall, but be sure to remove any loose paint or wallpaper. Clean the wall of any imperfections, then clean away dust to ensure a good bond. Use trisodium phosphate (TSP) to eliminate any stubborn grease stains or residue. Then, wipe the clean walls with a damp cloth and let them dry completely before tiling your backsplash.
2: Plan Tile Layout
If the wall is clean and dry, you can tape the tile sheets to test your arrangement. Cut the tiles in the desired way using a knife by cutting the mesh behind. Determine how you’ll manage any gap between your tile and the cabinet floor. Try to get a gap at least the size of a half tile. Start your tiles with no grout line on the countertop, or create a line of grout in place to aid in closing the gap above. Place the sheets until they reach the corner, trying to make a gap not greater than one-half tile. Note the position of the sheets using the pencil when you take them off them.
Optional Alternative: Install Schluter Strip to make Tile Edge
If you’re planning to finish your backsplash with the Schluter strip, take measurements, then cut and place the strip before tiling. Then integrate it into your design. Just place the strip where you’d like your backsplash end using thin-set mortar. It is also possible to finish your backsplash by installing bullnose tiles that provide the appearance of a rounded edge. Install Bullnose tiles after you’ve finished your backsplash, not at the beginning.
3: Apply Thin-set
Tape a drop cloth over your countertop to shield the countertop. Apply thin-set mortar to the wall, then use a notched trowel to create smooth, even ridges. Review the manufacturer’s specifications to determine the best trowel notch sizes (1/8 inch is common).
4: Install the Tile Backsplash
Install the entire tile sheet first, and then align them using your markers (you’ll have the ability to glimpse them through the mortar that has been set thinly). Keep the joints between sheets consistent by using spacers for tiles. After the mortar has been applied, pull the sheet back to look for any voids. Apply more mortar with a thin set when needed.
5: Install Tiles around Receptacles and Switches.
You will likely encounter at the very least an outlet or switch when building a tile backsplash. When you want to tile around the receptacle, ensure that you turn off the power on the panel for the breaker. Remove the screws that hold the receptacle or switch, and gently remove it from the wall. After grouting and tile installation are completed, you can add the box extender. Because of the thickness of the tile, you may require longer screws.
6: Continue adding Tile Spacers
Make sure you space the backsplash to ensure that your tiles are aligned along the wall’s length and wideness. Without spacers, your backsplash will probably be in a crooked position. Be aware that your walls may not be perfectly square. To accommodate this, you may have cut tiles to make them fit or substitute a greater grout line under the cabinets above.
7: Install the Last Row of Tile
Once you’ve got to the Schluter strip, Cut tiles to match the row at the end using a wet cutter or tile cutter.
If necessary, smooth out any uneven edges using a rubbing stone.
8: Place Tiles
Once all tiles are set, press them down on the wall using the fingers of your hands or with a grout floating. Make sure that tiles are evenly set. Clean any loose, thin mortar.
9: Apply Tile Grout
Allow the mortar to dry (usually twelve hours), Then blend the mortar. Mix the grout into all joints by letting the grout across the tiles horizontally or horizontally.
It can also be diagonal. Fill any gaps between tiles with grout. There shouldn’t be gaps, holes, and air bubbles.
10: Wipe clean using Sponge
After the grouting of your backsplash, clean it using the wet (not damp)
Sponge to remove any grout left on the tile.
11: Wipe clean with a Dry Towel
After the grout has dried by the manufacturer’s specifications, Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and use a dry,
clean cloth to clean any haze that may have formed on the tiles.
12: Seal Tile Grout
Grout sealer simple maintenance in the future Apply grout sealer. It reduces the possibility of staining.
Caulk the area where the backsplash joins the upper cabinets to complete the installation of your tile backsplash.